“Ancient sites, scenic routes and mythical irish folklore. I can’t wait to discover Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way and witness its epicness.”
Where there is North Coast 500 in Scotland, there is the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland. An epic coastal route that stretches 2600km winding its way down all along the Irish west coast, beginning from the Inishowen Peninsula in the north to the charming town of Kinsale in Cork county in the south. On this trip, we will be driving a very small (but stunning) part of it.
One week in Ireland, but on this Thursday we travel in a compact SUV, fit for three, across the route that cuts the map of Ireland right through the middle from Bettystown in the east coast, to a small part of the Wild Atlantic Way, a County called Mayo.
There is one particular part of County Mayo that will capture our experience of the Wild Atlantic Way; the Mullet Peninsula where we will be spending the night in a glamping pod. Collectively, it offers rugged coastlines for an incredible coastal drive views, dramatic yet beautiful bays, sheer cliffs, and a chance to experience waking up to the Atlantic ocean’s purity.
BETTYSTOWN | Day 1 ~ 08.30 A.M.
The venerable gardener with silver locks turned to us from his garden trim work.
He was cheerful and curious perhaps a little confused as to where these three roadtrippers are off to with luggages when they’ve only just arrived two days ago and had planned to stay in Appleloft for a week.
Appleloft is a spacious coastal self-catering thatched cottage that I had booked. We had decided that it shall be our base during our week in Ireland. We left early in the morning after a hearty english breakfast I cooked up. Not forgetting my daily dose of Chek Hup (less sweet) coffee.
Luggages in, groceries packed, SUV fired up. Our Wild Atlantic Way drive has just begun.
After a short minute of bickering about the heater and how it was still cold in the car, we set off on this wonderful Thursday morning with beats from my Roadtripphh Playlist streaming songs from the likes of Jethro Tull, Steely Dan, The Edgar Winter Group and all the good stuff that gets you excited to an unforgettable Wild Atlantic drive.
The plan? Drive Ireland’s national primary road, the N4, which runs from Dublin to the northwest of Ireland and Sligo. Given that we were from Bettystown, we made our way onto M3 and took the N51 to exit on to N4.
Now, we’re in business.
We knew the highlight of today’s section would be the magnificent Downpatrick Head. However this legendary site sits on the other end of Ireland. It would take us four hours to reach and would quite frankly, wear us out by the time we arrive.
Just like any highways or motorways in the world, roads like the N4 tend to put drivers to sleep but we wondered if we can start the route with open eyes and still be able to drink in the first few hours of our drive in scenery.
Que Lough Owel.
LOUGH OWEL ~ 10.00 A.M.
After a couple of hours, with two service stops to fuel up and toilet breaks, we reach just north of Mullingar. At this point my speed limit was casual, almost bored out of my mind, we chanced upon a glacier blue lake on the left side of the road, instantaneously bringing me to the edge of my driver’s seat, almost hugging the steering wheel because in my mind, “holy, this is too stunning not to stop!”
We quickly realise that Lough Owel would be the first beautiful place to take a break off the N4 before we reach county Mayo. The parking lot is nestled on a hill with the closest car park being just a couple of 100 meters from the hill’s edge, making it the perfect parking spot and viewing point that would then treat us with stunning scenery of the lake and beyond.
I have to venture out a little bit.
To get a closer vantage point, there is a small walk down from the car park. The descent closer to the lake leads me to a short narrow stone bridge which stands above a railway track. As I proceed further, a staircase brings me down to a diving board.
In the distance, a woman pops out of the lake and nonchalantly climb onto the diving board. It caught me by surprise, because the lake isn’t exactly in swim condition (it seemed choppy). Temperature this morning is lingering between three and five degrees. Not the warmest weather by my books either.
Lough Owel or Loch Uail in Irish is a Glacier lake that has clear waters with high pH. So clear that the colour of the lake reflects the colour of the sky at a particular hour in the day. The sweeping blue hues of the lake, the landscapes beyond it, the high mid day sun coupled with the calming breeze hinted that this, was going to be that one stop in our road trip to remember!
DOWNPATRICK HEAD ~ 4.00 P.M.
As we travel westward, the scenery becomes increasingly wild and rugged. By this time we’ve driven through charming villages and towns, giving us a taste of the Irish culture and way of life but in some parts of the N4, the road winds through vast and lush green fields dotted with grazing sheeps and cows.
It was an easy drive but with the occasional narrow roads and hairpin turns.
As we near the destination, we begin seeing dramatic landscapes with towering sea cliffs. I had expected this of the Wild Atlantic Way. Our arrival is greeted with strong winds and stormy rain clouds hanging low. The final approach to Downpatrick Head takes us down a narrow, winding lane that leads to a small car park with a sign on a blind turn.
If it wasn’t for Google Maps, we wouldn’t have noticed it.
From the car park a short hike is required where the trail is muddy with some parts feeling like I’m walking on quicksand. There is already a number of hillwalkers out here taking on the accent while some had just arrived and started walking at about the same time as me.
While the folks stay warm and dry in the SUV, I march on and brave the wind and rain to see the iconic Dún Briste (Broken Fort) and took the opportunity of photographing Downpatrick Head, soak up its surrounding (while almost being swept off my feet several times by the strong wind) and appreciate its splendour for as long as I can.
Who knew that standing still in one spot would prove to be a heavy feat.
The North Atlantic Ocean on the other hand, is simply sheer power.
With time catching up on us, it meant that we have to skip two other key stops which are actually beautiful sceneries along the route (according to Google), Dún na mBó and Erris Head Loop Walk which I knew for certain we’ll want to take our sweet time to explore. It will take us another hour and fifteen minutes to reach. However, the night is upon us and we are absolutely tired from the long day of driving and we need to check-in, call it a day and cook dinner.
RYNN ~ 4.45 P.M.
A truly wonderful self-catering luxury glamping pod with a view you’ll never forget. This stay is one of my most surprising find.
Planning the drive to the west coast of Ireland was already a challenge but making sure that I had access to the internet for client calls was absolutely crucial. We could only do a small part of the coastal drive, so while planning I was skeptical of whether there is a decent accomodation, especially when it is so close to the ocean and literally on the northeastern tip of the Mullet Peninsula.
If we don’t find a place, the alternative would be to drive four hours back to our accommodation in Bettystown and skip the key stops we wanted to do near Downpatrick Head altogether.
Lo and behold (god bless booking.com), I matched Downpatrick Head’s location and searched for a stay nearby and found Ceide Glamping! Just 15 minutes away from Downpatrick Head, it has an impressive review rating of 9.7 and is only eight months old. Yes, it is a new accommodation in Ballycastle. I’m happy to know that it has a ‘Travel Sustainable’ badge too. Which means this place has taken significant steps to make our stay more sustainable.
We drive from Downpatrick Head for about fifteen minutes to reach Rynn, which is in Ballycastle. Just 1.3km from Ceide Glamping is Ballycastle Beach. We finally get to settle down and relax for the rest of the day after a long drive.
The pod came equipped with a car park, convenient to unload and transfer our things into the pod. There is a terrace with a table and bench where we sit for a few minutes to marvel at the most amazing view of the North Atlantic Ocean and Dún Briste in its most moody weather.
The wind was picking up at this point. Rain and drizzle started again, but for me, it was time to be a proper adult and brave the miserableness of this gloomy Thursday for another two hours with my client. Perhaps squeeze in some brain draining last minute work after before I officially call it a day.
The pod has a cosy two-seater sofa bed, dining table fit for four, a fully equipped kitchenette that comes with a hood and a hob, a microwave oven, a kettle and a fridge. It is nice that there is utensils, pots and pans too. Further into the pod is the bed room with an attached toilet.
Can’t believe we get to wake up to the powerful sounds of the ocean in a fully equipped pod like this one.
BROADHAVEN LIGHTHOUSE | Day 2 ~ 11.00 A.M.
Our time yesterday started with one of those typical Irish rain and drizzle weather, normally coming from the Atlantic frontal systems which travel northeast over the island. First light here on the Wild Atlantic Way is not long either but there is eye-squinting sunshine today.
Broadhaven Lighthouse a.k.a Ballyglass Lighthouse is the highlight of the day. After a hearty breakfast (prepared by moi), it got us ready and in the mood to start the day.
Our lighthouse ‘hunting’ begins.
As we approach the lighthouse, the drive takes us on a narrow single-track road with farm fence lined on both sides. Broadhaven Lighthouse was already in our front view. On the left is the Atlantic ocean from a very different point of view that we had seen from Downpatrick Head, which also seems to go on forever. On the right, is the vastness of the wild, uncut field reflecting autumn tones and patches of lush greenery showing signs of spring.
Yes, this exact spot on the road beckons us to stop the car. Roughly 300 metres from the gate of the lighthouse. There is no other cars in sight, so we quickly get out and take photos of the lighthouse from the distance.
A few moments later we hopped back in the SUV and head straight to the entrance of Broadhaven Lighthouse. There is not much space for parking but there is a white van parked outside the gate. Unfortunately visitors are not allowed inside, so I prepped my Olympus Pen and took close ups of the lighthouse from the car park instead.
Exactly one hour later, it was time for us to make our way back to Bettystown.
As the weather app predicted, the rain will arrive soon. This is our que to make our way back to Bettystown.
If you are looking to embark on the same experience or include the same stops in your itinerary, check out my UK and Ireland Route Guide for a more specific advice on places to stay and things to do.
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Glad I found this travel journal. I will be doing the Wild Atlantic Way in July but not sure exactly where along the route I should stop. This gave me ideas and Downpatrick Head and Broadhaven Lighthouse will surely be included in the itinerary.