“Ancient sites, scenic routes and mythical irish folklore. I can’t wait to discover Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way and witness its epicness.”
Where there is North Coast 500 in Scotland, there is the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland. An epic coastal route that stretches 2600km winding its way down all along the Irish west coast, beginning from the Inishowen Peninsula in the north to the charming town of Kinsale in Cork county in the south. On this trip, we will be driving a very small (but stunning) part of it.
One week in Ireland, but on this Thursday we travel in a compact SUV, fit for three, across the route that cuts the map of Ireland right through the middle from Bettystown in the east coast, to a small part of the Wild Atlantic Way, a County called Mayo.
There is one particular part of County Mayo that will capture our experience of the Wild Atlantic Way; the Mullet Peninsula where we will be spending the night in a glamping pod. Collectively, it offers rugged coastlines for an incredible coastal drive views, dramatic yet beautiful bays, sheer cliffs, and a chance to experience waking up to the Atlantic ocean’s purity.
BETTYSTOWN | Day 1 ~ 08.30 A.M.
The venerable gardener with silver locks turned to us from his garden trim work.
He was cheerful and curious perhaps a little confused as to where these three roadtrippers are off to with luggages when they’ve only just arrived two days ago and had planned to stay in Appleloft for a week.
Appleloft is a spacious coastal self-catering thatched cottage that I had booked. We had decided that it shall be our base during our week in Ireland. We left early in the morning after a hearty english breakfast I cooked up. Not forgetting my daily dose of Chek Hup (less sweet) coffee.
Luggages in, groceries packed, SUV fired up. Our Wild Atlantic Way drive has just begun.
After a short minute of bickering about the heater and how it was still cold in the car, we set off on this wonderful Thursday morning with beats from my Roadtripphh Playlist streaming songs from the likes of Jethro Tull, Steely Dan, The Edgar Winter Group and all the good stuff that gets you excited to an unforgettable Wild Atlantic drive.
The plan? Drive Ireland’s national primary road, the N4, which runs from Dublin to the northwest of Ireland and Sligo. Given that we were from Bettystown, we made our way onto M3 and took the N51 to exit on to N4.
Now, we’re in business.
We knew the highlight of today’s section would be the magnificent Downpatrick Head. However this legendary site sits on the other end of Ireland. It would take us four hours to reach and would quite frankly, wear us out by the time we arrive.
Just like any highways or motorways in the world, roads like the N4 tend to put drivers to sleep but we wondered if we can start the route with open eyes and still be able to drink in the first few hours of our drive in scenery.
Que Lough Owel.
LOUGH OWEL ~ 10.00 A.M.
After a couple of hours, with two service stops to fuel up and toilet breaks, we reach just north of Mullingar. At this point my speed limit was casual, almost bored out of my mind, we chanced upon a glacier blue lake on the left side of the road, instantaneously bringing me to the edge of my driver’s seat, almost hugging the steering wheel because in my mind, “holy, this is too stunning not to stop!”
We quickly realise that Lough Owel would be the first beautiful place to take a break off the N4 before we reach county Mayo. The parking lot is nestled on a hill with the closest car park being just a couple of 100 meters from the hill’s edge, making it the perfect parking spot and viewing point that would then treat us with stunning scenery of the lake and beyond.
I have to venture out a little bit.
To get a closer vantage point, there is a small walk down from the car park. The descent closer to the lake leads me to a short narrow stone bridge which stands above a railway track. As I proceed further, a staircase brings me down to a diving board.
In the distance, a woman pops out of the lake and nonchalantly climb onto the diving board. It caught me by surprise, because the lake isn’t exactly in swim condition (it seemed choppy). Temperature this morning is lingering between three and five degrees. Not the warmest weather by my books either.
Lough Owel or Loch Uail in Irish is a Glacier lake that has clear waters with high pH. So clear that the colour of the lake reflects the colour of the sky at a particular hour in the day. The sweeping blue hues of the lake, the landscapes beyond it, the high mid day sun coupled with the calming breeze hinted that this, was going to be that one stop in our road trip to remember!
DOWNPATRICK HEAD ~ 4.00 P.M.
As we travel westward, the scenery becomes increasingly wild and rugged. By this time we’ve driven through charming villages and towns, giving us a taste of the Irish culture and way of life but in some parts of the N4, the road winds through vast and lush green fields dotted with grazing sheeps and cows.
It was an easy drive but with the occasional narrow roads and hairpin turns.
As we near the destination, we begin seeing dramatic landscapes with towering sea cliffs. I had expected this of the Wild Atlantic Way. Our arrival is greeted with strong winds and stormy rain clouds hanging low. The final approach to Downpatrick Head takes us down a narrow, winding lane that leads to a small car park with a sign on a blind turn.
If it wasn’t for Google Maps, we wouldn’t have noticed it.
From the car park a short hike is required where the trail is muddy with some parts feeling like I’m walking on quicksand. There is already a number of hillwalkers out here taking on the accent while some had just arrived and started walking at about the same time as me.
While the folks stay warm and dry in the SUV, I march on and brave the wind and rain to see the iconic Dún Briste (Broken Fort) and took the opportunity of photographing Downpatrick Head, soak up its surrounding (while almost being swept off my feet several times by the strong wind) and appreciate its splendour for as long as I can.
Who knew that standing still in one spot would prove to be a heavy feat.
The North Atlantic Ocean on the other hand, is simply sheer power.
Glad I found this travel journal. I will be doing the Wild Atlantic Way in July but not sure exactly where along the route I should stop. This gave me ideas and Downpatrick Head and Broadhaven Lighthouse will surely be included in the itinerary.