Everything You Need To Know Before Hiking The Pinnacles
I had long dreamed of visiting Mulu National Park, and what got me intrigued was the fact that it is a rainforest that took 60 million years to create. Don’t mind my geeking out on this, but let’s not forget that Mulu’s picturesque rainforest scenery and biological significance have won it a World Heritage status back in November 2000.
Given that it is right in the heart of Borneo and happens to be in Malaysia, offered me the perfect opportunity to explore this part of the country.
It is, quite simply, another worldly rainforest trip.
The Gunung Mulu National Park offers everyone a true experience of a tropical rainforest. All the lush green trees and the superabundance of rainfall that discharge into or under the limestone lenses, the distinct quality of every Melinau limestone you’ll ever come across in your path make up the subterranean world that is extraordinarily massive, with huge chambers and isolated underground crystal clear rivers that are unique only to tropical areas.
The days spent exploring the show caves plus the hike climb up to The Pinnacles takes about five days. In case you were wondering, the show caves and The Pinnacles are a part of the Gunung Mulu National Park.
Then there’s Gunung (Mt) Mulu, for those looking for extreme high-altitude adventures and if you really want to put yourself to the test, you can hike-climb that too. Going up The Pinnacles alone is already considered an extreme activity, but hiking Gunung Mulu according to experienced trekkers and mountaineers describes as more challenging than Mount Kinabalu and much more strenuous than Mount Kilimandjaro.
10 Things to know before Hiking the Pinnacles
#1: So, what actually is the Pinnacles?
It’s basically an isolated mountain peak with up to 45m high of jagged limestones that are not only razor-sharp but form a blue-grey alien-like landscape rising up out of the slopes of Gunung Api.
When the Gunung Mulu National Park received its World Heritage status in 2000, it fostered a wider awareness of this remote, rural part of Sarawak. It not only elevated Mulu as one of the best destinations on the island of Borneo but gained genuine interest from the Sarawak Government and its people in staying committed to developing world-leading conservation practices, and high-quality and responsible nature-based tourism activities.
It has proved widely successful, due in large part to the natural beauty and tranquillity of the journey from the base and up to The Pinnacles.
Many in the media have called it the “amazing wonder” of Sarawak and I can attest to that because it truly is an amazing wonder for me. The journey leading up to the viewpoint of The Pinnacles was also an experience – the depth of the forest, the indigenous tribes along the Melinau river, and the famed bat exodus the day before our 3-hour hike from Kuala Litut to Camp 5.
In recent years, I’ve been fortunate to road trip through New Zealand’s South Island and Australia, but I must say, that this trip is very special and is no comparison because it provides a different kind of experience – a true tropical rainforest experience.
#2: The only way up is upstream
The trip begins and ends in the northwest of Borneo. Technically for us, it starts at Mulu Marriott which is located just beside the Melinau River where we transfer onto a long boat for a 45-minute river cruise with stops before we reach Kuala Litut. The starting point of the three-hour trek.
The Melinau River serves as a navigational ‘highway’ connecting the various indigenous communities such as the Berawan, the Penan, Kelabit and Lun Bawang.
I personally saw this as a pre-treat before the long trek.
A handicraft market with a few pop-up stalls on the wings of the Melinau River sells bracelets, necklaces and key chains made out of beads, while the blowpipes in several different sizes are made with intricate carvings. Then there are bags – big and small all hand-woven purely from rattan.
This market is part of the Penan settlement and the people living there rely on the sales that come through the market as their source of income.
2nd & 3rd Stop ~ Wind & Clearwater Cave
The Wind Cave as you can already tell got its name from the cool breeze that blows continuously through the cave. As you enter, you’ll notice its smooth tubular limestone cave walls that were formed during the Jurassic-Cretaceous period, roughly about 60 million years ago.
A 1,000-meter plank walk runs throughout the length of Wind cave, so it’s fairly easy and safe to explore but having a torch light to help you navigate is essential as it is still poorly lit. It is a cave after all.
After Wind Cave, on to Clearwater Cave. This one is even more remote and I find it fascinating because this is where the subterranean emerges from the cliff face. Our guide Lau took us up the 200 stairs to enter the cave. Here you’ll find the Monophyllaea pendula, a plant that only grows one leaf which also happens to be an endemic in Sarawak, Borneo.
Clearwater Cave alone measures over 220km in length and it is one of the biggest cave systems in the world.
You’re not allowed to swim inside the cave but you can swim and cool down in the natural crystal-clear water. There you can picnic on the deck, sip coffee and relax among the trees.
4th Stop ~ Kuala Litut
This is where you brace yourself for a three-hour trek in a true Bornean rainforest. Come rain or shine, you will have to keep moving and reach Camp 5 before sundown. Here, the mosquito repellent, your raincoat, your hiking shoes, snacks and Gatorade are your best friends.
Final Stop ~ Camp 5
The base of the Pinnacles and where you rest one night before you ascend the next morning.
So, come fit and come prepared because you can’t just pop down the store and get supplies or withdraw cash.
What to Pack for Hiking The Pinnacles?
Non-slip covered footwear
Raincoat (a poncho won’t do you any good. You do not want your loose poncho to get caught on the sharp limestones and trees as you climb up The Pinnacles).
Torchlight ~ HEADLAMP ADVISABLE. (Don’t bring your Decathlon Quechua lamp as I did. It won’t cut it in the darkness of the caves).
Hat or sweatband
Insect repellent or mosquito repellent that help remove leaches too
Hand glove – I used my MTB gloves. It helps a lot!
Water bottle or water bag.
Snacks to munch while trekking.
36L or 30L backpack.
Consider packing with a 36L to pack everything and bring one smaller size bag. One that can fit a meal and a minimum of 3 litres of water for when you hike The Pinnacles.
Dry-fit or light clothing for tropical weather. Bring more than three if possible because your clothes won’t dry overnight in the jungle.
A jacket. It gets chilly at night.
Appropriate hiking shoes or boots that you have worn into.
At least 3 pairs of socks.
Travel towel
Swimwear for a relaxing dip or swim in the clear stream after coming down from The Pinnacles.
#5: Learn the map of the ascend
This map helps you visualise, anticipate and prepare mentally for what’s coming. This way your body won’t be surprised. After the three-hour trek from Kuala Litut to Camp 5, we finally get to settle down for the night and prepare for our ascend the next day.
We started early, at 6:30 am so we can reach the viewpoint by 10 am and leave by 11 am. Our group did pretty well. No rush, paced ourselves and rest when needed.
The trail to the top is only 2,400 km long but rises up 1200 metres to the viewpoint. If you look at the map, the last 400m section of the trail is near vertical with rope sections and steel ladders to climb.
Also, there are no safety harnesses. It’s just you, the ladder and your bravery.
This section was also when I realised what fear of heights actually felt like. The more steps I take up the ladder, the more it dawned on me that if I slip, I could potentially be free falling backwards to my death. That’s how scary it was but I shoved that thought away and kept moving upward – very slowly and carefully.
#6: don’t underestimate the descend
Reaching the viewpoint is not even the hard part. Heading down was a mental challenge all on its own. It took us four hours to reach the top and six hours to reach back to Camp 5.
To put it simply, when we were heading down, we were essentially doing lunges downward for most of the second half of our day and we were treading the trail carefully to avoid slips and trips from the huge tree roots and sharp stones surrounding us.
#7: You’re not allowed to hike The Pinnacles without a licensed guide
Yes, because let’s face it, we are no mountaineers and we don’t know the first thing about the unpredictable rainforest weather and elements.
Your hike must be accompanied by a licensed guide who knows the level of extreme the trail can be.
Given the extremity of The Pinnacle hike, the entire trip is only offered as a 3-day and 2 nights trip, starting with the river cruise, followed by the 1-2 hour Wind and Clearwater cave visit, and then the hike up.
#8: Mobile phone signals are non-existent. Only radio communication
Now, this can rightly be viewed as something positive about this tropical rainforest – a rare chance to disconnect and detach from the distractions of your smartphones. An opportunity to immerse yourself and enjoy the true beauty of Borneo at its finest.
Some people might ask, “Why would you get into all that trouble just to see a bunch of jagged limestones sticking out in the middle of the jungle?”
Well, it’s not about that at all. It’s the air, the smell, the sounds and how the rainforest makes you feel inside. That’s something that you can never get in your concrete jungle.
#9: Know the trail, respect it and listen to your guide
Know your right way ~ Hense the map I shared earlier in this article. When you have eyes on what lies ahead of you and how long it will take, you’ll be able to navigate the trail calmly.
Don’t underestimate trail conditions ~ in this case, your guide will most likely weed out the possible dangers the night before by observing weather conditions. Even if you have the green light to hike the next day, the trail may still be wet and the huge tree roots might be slippery, all of which, if you don’t tread the trail carefully you could risk injuring yourself.
Let nature do all the talking ~ Be respectful to both nature and other hikers and refrain from being too loud.
Don’t take anything from the forest ~ You’ll only add weight to your already limited space backpack. It’s ok to move tree branches or twigs to make way for yourself, but don’t take anything for souvenirs.
Patience ~ News flash, this isn’t a race and it’s not worth dying for. Hiking an extreme trail like The Pinnacles takes patience and pacing. There’s no point in reaching up so fast when your group is left behind. Not only will it help you savour energy, but it will also help everyone stay in the group together.
Listen and trust your guide ~ if he thinks you’re not looking too great to continue hiking, listen to him because if you’re no longer fit, you are not only risking your own safety by continuing to hike, but you are also risking your group’s safety. If he says it’s time to rest, then rest.
No Drones ~ You’ll need a permit for that.
#10: The Best Time to Hike The Pinnacles
It’s generally hot all year round, but don’t forget that this is a rainforest and rain can be massively unpredictable any time of the year anyway – especially when you are in Borneo.
The best months to hike The Pinnacles are in June, July, August and September, but the rainiest months would typically be in January, February, March April, May, November and December.
To give you a better context, my friend and I did The Pinnacles in March this year. Yes, it was the rainiest month but we were lucky because on the day of the hike before reaching Kuala Litut there were already drizzles during the boat ride.
It then became an absolute downpour while we were walking from Kuala Litut to Camp 5. On the bright side, the clouds and weather on the next next day were near perfect for us to hike The Pinnacles.
If the rain continued on the day of our ascend, we would have had to call off the hike altogether because it would be too dangerous.
Did you find the guide useful? Leave a comment below or share it with your friends!
PS: Follow my travels on Instagram @yasminandworld for more reels, stories and pictures.
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