Planning an Arctic adventure but dreading the idea of driving, especially in the thick of winter? I’ve got you covered!
The original plan for this trip was to sail the Arctic Edge. It’s a circumnavigation on an electric hybrid tall ship with embarkations from Longyearbyen, Svalbard. Clearly, this plan has been re-written because of two things; my brother and cousin will be joining. It meant the itinerary had to be optimized, so everyone can enjoy the trip. Second; I was longing for a coolcation, and to experience the Arctic in the thick of winter. Sailing the Arctic edge is only available in summer.
The original plan will just have to wait.
After three years of planning, writing and re-writing, I finally bit the bullet this winter and headed for my first Arctic adventure. Putting on my Patagonia fleece pullover was a huge treat. Northern Norway and the Finnish Lapland were going to be the main focus. However, it quickly became apparent that there was far more to explore, experience and appreciate than the clusters of seductive looking adventures in this part of the Arctic Circle.
Estonia is also included in this route, because why not?
Spectacular fjords of the Lyngen Alps to the east of the Arctic capital of Tromsø, towering jagged mountains rising from both sides, home to Arctic wildlife such as orca whales and reindeers, strong folk traditions and Sami cultures, ice-cold swimming holes; and a modern day reputation for being one of the most expensive regions for those who live there and for those who arrive.
And so, a twelve-day through the Arctic Circle became a sixteen-day trip. The biggest challenge was drafting up a plan which allowed us to conquer the logistical obstacle posed by the unpredictable winter conditions. The geographical shape of Norway, Finland, and Estonia being along the coast of the Baltic Sea was also taken into consideration, but most importantly, how do we do it all without driving?
The solution I landed on after several pivots resulted in the most memorable experiences of the entire trip.
Typically, I leave trip itinerary posts to last, and on many occasions are left unwritten or unpublished. Turns out that was quite silly of me, as this post is my second most requested by fellow followers on Instagram.
Behold the Arctic Route Guide you all have been asking for.
p.s. if you want to skip this guide and get straight to the planning, use my Arctic Route Trip Planner to get started now!
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The Route & Map
Below is the actual route we did starting from Kuala Lumpur, with transits in Istanbul and Oslo. We decided to skip Oslo altogether because we felt it wasn’t worth wasting time there when the goal is to experience the Arctic Circle.
Due to a late night flight from Kuala Lumpur, the entire trip is actually just 15 days.
We headed 69° North to Tromsø, the Arctic capital, and stayed for four nights. Then south with three nights in Rovaniemi via the charming little winter village of Kilpisjärvi in the Finnish Lapland and three in Helsinki.
This arrangement allowed us to explore Tromsø and the Finnish Lapland at a comfortable pace, as well as have a couple of lazy days just getting to know each place we are based in.
After that, it’s Estonia for three nights in the capital city of Tallinn.
In the detailed trip notes and day-by-day itinerary breakdown in the next section, I will share what I recommend changing or optimize based on our experiences.
Planning Tips & Route Notes
A word of warning to budget travellers
Travelling to, from and within the Arctic, such as Northern Norway, Sweden and Finland is not cheap.
In fact, for those of you who are budget conscious, you need to be fully aware that hiking in the alps or visiting a city like Tromsø, will be costing more than your initial expectations; transportation and accommodation costs form a significant part of this.
I thought long and hard whether I could afford to travel the Arctic comfortably. Rest and a good bed is non-negotiable, especially when I know I will be doing a combination of cityscapes and day activities in the wilderness. It was only after much research, that I decided it was worth going over the initial budget by quite a significant margin, to experience the region.
Route Notes
- Northern Norway, Finland and Estonia is made for a no-driving overland and sea-crossing trip. The bus, train and ferry experience and scenery along the way formed a huge part of our enjoyment.
- We did this trip in mid March, a month which by the Arctic Circle standard is no where close to spring and temperatures can still reach freezing subzero temperatures. Winter typically ends in April in the Arctic. While it is not considered the coldest month, expect daily snowfall, possible level four avalanches that could cause road closures, and on occasion a lovely day of sun and snow all at the same time. If you are not big on these unpredictable weather conditions, this itinerary can be adjusted to your preferred season.
- For context, there are eight countries that share the Arctic—Northern Norway, the Swedish and Finnish Lapland are three of the eight, and there are no direct cross-border train connections between them. The Arctic Circle train from Oslo in Norway stops at Narvik and doesn’t go further north. The Arctic Circle train from Stockholm in Sweden, on the other hand, stops at Kiruna and doesn’t go any further north either. This means there are no direct train connections from the main cities to Tromsø.
- You can take an 18-hour train further north but will have to do bus transfers using the Arctic Bus that will take a few additional hours. After comparing costs and the time it takes for us to reach Tromsø versus flying, it became apparent that a two-hour flight from Oslo would be best for our mental and physical well-being.
- The Arctic region of Norway, Sweden and Finland are vast in distances and pose challenging terrains, which made accessing remote communities difficult. Thanks to the regional cooperation between the three countries, The Arctic Bus was established to provide easy cross-border transportation for people who wants to experience the Arctic.
- The Arctic Bus is a safe, reliable, comfortable and a practical way to get around to your adventures in Northern Norway, Swedish and Finnish Lapland.
- The Arctic Winter Bus Route operates daily from December 1st up to March 31st every year. My decisions on dates and where to stay along this route predominantly took into consideration this very schedule.
- The only other option to get by in the north between the three countries is to drive.
- I think sixteen or seventeen days is just the perfect amount of time, especially if you want unhurriedly to cover the fjords in Northern Norway and do hikes in the Finnish Lapland. You can of course give weighting to whether you want to prioritise lazy day cityscapes or day activities such as husky sledding and campfires. My Itinerary has a nice, slow and comfortable balance for each.
- The urban small town of Rovaniemi is a sensible start point and base for the Finnish Lapland portion of the trip. Most readers might disagree with this because the town is a little touristy with tour operators available at every corner. We stayed three nights in Rovaniemi.
- The initial plan was to stay in Kilpisjärvi—a lively little village that sits at the top of Finland’s ‘arm’, just across the Norwegian Border. I quickly realised that it wasn’t practical given that this is a no driving trip and that the distance between a remote cabin in Kilpisjärvi and our train departure point in Rovaniemi is an eight hour bus ride. I didn’t want us to get exhausted rushing and wasting time packing and unpacking in such a short period of time.
- Keep in mind that if you do decide to go straight to Rovaniemi from Tromsø, it will take a ten hour bus ride. The upside is we get to save cost on accommodation in Rovaniemi, there’s plenty to see, lots of food places to sample, and lots of day activities you can do outside of town. Remote cabin bookings on the other hand, can be costly, it’s isolated with limited to no eateries, and consumes high travel time getting from point A to point B. The upside is you get to do countless activities in unique scenery and wild nature around the village.
- I think most people would prefer staying in Kilpisjärvi. If you have four or five nights to spare and the budget, then I highly recommend you consider it. In fact, that is one revision I’d make to this itinerary if we had more than three nights and a bigger budget.
- Our last two destination is Helsinki where we stayed three nights and; Tallinn for three nights. We took the VR Matkalla Train from Rovaniemi to Helsinki and crossed the Baltic Sea with Tallink Silja Line ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn. While they may not be considered destinations in the Arctic Circle, I included them in as it follows an ‘n’ shaped direction on the map that starts in Tromsø, and ends in Tallinn. It also offers a smooth progression through diverse Arctic terrains and the Baltic Sea horrizons.
The Arctic Itinerary | Day-by-Day
Day One & Two: Istanbul – Oslo – Tromsø
We arrived at Istanbul Airport early in the morning. While Istanbul was just a two hour transit, the first thing we needed to sort out was our regional eSIM. We each got ourselves an Airalo eSIM which covers Norway, Finland and Estonia, including Turkey.
99% of the three destinations excepts cashless payments. We used Wise and did not withdraw cash for the entire trip.
All we needed to do is open a EURO and NOK currency accounts in our Wise. Finland and Estonia excepts the Euro currency while Norway uses it’s own ‘krona’ or the Norwegian krone (NOK).
We arrived at Oslo airport around noon and departed to Tromsø five hours later and arrived at 5pm in the evening.
Bus / Tromsø has a well organized public bus transportation system and has city bus connections as well as district bus connections within the municipality.
The Svipper App is a convenient way to plan and purchase bus tickets.
Stay / Arctic Homes Nordic Oasis is a fantastic and spacious apartment in a convenient location in Tromsø. It has two bedrooms and one bathroom with plenty of cafes and eateries within walking distance – I highly recommend this.
Lyngen Alps Panorama is an exclusive door-to-door skiing cabin in one the world’s most beautiful and undisturbed places in the Arctic region. Here you can experience the northern lights in winter and the midnight sun in summer. It’s also an amazing surfspot where you can ride the waves and have it all to yourself. If you are looking for a place where you can find inner peace and enjoy calm experiences with friends and family, then this would be perfect. However keep in mind that this cabin is a two hour drive from Tromsø.
Day Three: Tromsø
Do / Explore Tromsø and its Café scene. Tromsø is the third largest city in Northern Norway and the third-largest city north of the Arctic Circle. It’s urban day break meets nature escapes. The best part is you don’t have to choose between the two because you can do both here.
This is considered our very first proper day since we arrived, so we decided to take it easy and let our bodies recover and settle in from the thirty hour flight. What better way than to get to know the city and sample some nice Cafés in town.
Here are Cafés in Tromsø you must try:
- Cafe 1 ~ Svermeri – Coffee & Cakes
- Cafe 2 ~ FINT – Hot breakfast Blate
- Cafe 3 ~ Raketten – Reindeer Hotdog
- Cafe 4 ~ Størhus – Big Hot Chocolate and Pizza
Day Four: Fjellheisen – Sommarøy
Do / Don’t miss the incredible panoramic views of snow covered Tromsø from Fjellheisen. You can easily take a gondola ride up to the peak, and if you do it in the evening, you might get a northern light appearance.
Check directly on the Fjellheisen website for opening hours and for ticket bookings.
Day Five: Tromsø – Lyngen Alps or Ramfjorden – Rya – Tirpitz-platen
Do / Go on a skitouring or a snowmobiling adventure. When visiting Tromsø, the Arctic wilderness is practically on your doorstep. While you can do these activities on your own, I don’t recommend it for safety reasons. Going with an organised tour with a local guide is always best.
Don’t miss incredible views while snowmobiling through the Lyngen Alps. We booked a Snowmobiling Tour through the Lyngen Alps. Although our booking was cancelled due to a level four avalanche that caused road closures enroute, I can imagine it would have been one of our best highlights in this itinerary. Despite that I still recommend it.
Due to the cancellation of our snowmobile activity, we got a full refund from the tour operator and decided to do a four hour catamaran cruise with stops at Ramfjorden, Rya and Tirpitz-platen. It was a calm and silent cruise that provided us with lots of photography opportunities of the epic panoramic views of bays and fjords. If it got too cold on the upper deck, you can sit and relax with a cup of hot chocolate and pastries you can buy at their cafe.
We booked our cruise here.
Dinner / We’re not exactly foodie people and sampling local cuisines is not a must-do. As long as we can fill our tummies with good food to fuel our energy after a long day of outings and activities, we’re good. On this day we opted for *Asian Healthy Food (Thai).
Day Six: Tromsø – Rovaniemi
After a quick meal before day break, with our Kembara Meals at our lovely Airbnb loft apartment, we walked to the Bus Terminal Prostneset in Tromsø.
Bus / This Arctic bus route includes a few stops that if you wanted, you can adjust your itinerary to explore places along the route. The Tromso/Rovaniemi route is just one out of eight routes offered by Best Arctic. Each of these routes have several stops in between with options to buy single trip tickets and return tickets. This gives you plenty of flexibility to create a route that suits your itinerary.
The Arctic Bus Route Map:
The bus ride from Tromsø to Rovaniemi is a ten hour journey. Our bus departs from Tromsø sharp at 07:00 and arrive at 17:00 in Rovaniemi.
Get your Arctic Bus tickets here.
Stay / I knew we would be knackered from this bus journey, so I booked us a place called Snowflakes Suites. Comfy warm beds, spacious and located conveniently.
Day Seven: Rovaniemi to Riisitunturi Hike
I don’t do hyperbole, so it means something when I say the Riisitunturi Hike went into my personal top three day hikes I’ve ever done, anywhere in the world. This is where you can catch the combination of pink and blue hues in the sky with frozen and snow covered trees on the fell— gifting you an impressive ethereal landscape in the Lapland.
I also don’t do brevity very well, but I’m going to try; don’t miss this experience and do it in mid February.
We did this at the end of March. As expected, the trees weren’t fully frozen and since the polar night season has ended, the etherealness of the landscape turns into a place where you can see that spring is eager to emerge. Despite this, the landscape is equally stunning.
Drive / No driving required because we joined a local guide that provides pick ups and transfers to the trailhead of Riisitunturi National Park. The journey from Rovaniemi to Riisitunturi National Park is a two hour drive and the hike includes a campfire lunch.
You can book a guided tour here.
Stay / No need to move tonight. Stay at Snowflake Suites II
How to See Riisitunturi in a Day – Coming soon!
Day Eight: Ounas River – Ounasvaara Nature Trail
Sometimes travel days shifts and plans change; this was one of those days.
We had initially intended to do forest ice skating in Kotatieva. While we were in Tromsø, I caught an an announcement from Kotatieva Leisure Park that the forest ice skating trail will be closed starting March 22nd. It was the end of the forest ice skating season and it was the day before we were due to arrive in Rovaniemi.
We were shatterred of course, because we brought our skates with us.
So make sure to adjust your itinerary and dates to include forest ice skating before end of March. The best time would be from mid February to mid March.
Despite this pivot, it gave us the opportunity to do another activitiy —ice hole dips and riverside sauna! I was more excited than the other two, but we braved the cold anyway and ended up enjoying the entire experience. It became a top highlight in this arctic adventure.
Plan / We booked a one hour riverside sauna and ice hole dip at Roiske Arctic Sauna and Ice Swimming Center. We picked the first session of the day which was at 3pm. We’re glad we did because for a good thirty minutes, we had the sauna and the ice hole surrounded by the frozen Ounas River all to ourselves. After the ice hole swim and sauna, you can either relax or be served hot chocolate and sit by the fire in a Laavu (Sami tent).
Drive / We ordered a Bolt ride to get to Roiske. It is only a five minutes drive from Rovaniemi City Centre. Find it on Google Maps.
Cost / €74.70 per hour for 3 pax
6 Ice Hole Swimming and Riverside Sauna Options in Rovaniemi:
- WNTR Sauna by Kesärafla – 6 minutes drive from Rovaniemi City Centre
- Heishala Yoga – 7 minutes drive from Rovaniemi City Centre
- Ounasvaaran Latu – 3 minutes drive from Rovaniemi City Centre
- Arctos Lapland – 15 minutes drive from Rovaniemi City Centre
- Vuosku Arctic Experiences – 40 minutes drive from Rovaniemi City Centre
- Apukka Resort – 15 minutes drive from Rovaniemi City Centre
Do / Spend the evening for a couple of hours snowmobiling on the frozen Ounas River to head into the wilderness for a campfire with vegan sausages and hot chocolate. This activity was a payback for not being able to do our snowmobiling through the Lyngen Alps in Tromsø.
While I’m not the type who goes wild over northern lights, it was a nice bonus to have been able to witness glimpses of it during a pitstop enroute back to the tour office. The campfire under the stars and the fact that we snowmobiled on a frozen river was more exciting (to me at least).
Find the guided tour here Snowmobile Safari & Campfire Evening Escape
A Guide to Ice Hole Swimming in Rovaniemi – Coming Soon!
Day Nine: Rovaniemi – Helsinki
Rovaniemi Train Station is only a seven minutes drive from our place at Snowflake Suites II. At this point of the trip, you can either decide to purchase a sleeper cabin ticket the night before and arrive in Helsinki on day nine, skip the snowmobile activity, or you can follow this existing one.
Train / The journey from Rovaniemi to Helsinki will take roughly eight hours. The VR train has several departure times throughout the day including sleeper cabins; all of which are available from 21:00 onwards.
We opted to take the 09:00 train departure on this day, because one, we wanted to see the scenery along the journey, second; to have more time to do winter activities in Rovaniemi and third, we wanted to be able to rest our heads by the evening in Helsinki. In anticipation of the long eight hour train journey, we knew we would be tired by the time we arrive.
Book your train tickets here.
Stay / I wanted us to experience something different this time, so “sleeping” with Bob W Kaarti was part of our trip’s enjoyment. One of the main reasons for choosing this stay is it’s great location. It’s an apart hotel freshly renovated in 2024 in a historical building and such a gem as it’s tucked away in Helsinki’s hip Kaartinkaupunki district.
We liked that it was close by to the waterfront and if you want to be at the center of everything, than Bob W Kaarti has it all; local cafes and eateries just within a walking distance.
We’ve been communicating with this “bearded hipster man” (or at least that’s how we think he looks like) on Whatsapp prior to our arrival. He was always very attentive to us until the very last day of our stay. We liked the quirkiness of it too—Bob W Kaarti has left it up to every guest and their imagination to conjure up a face to this “BOB”. He’s like this illusive host who isn’t actually at the premise but somehow it felt like he was there the whole time when we stayed there.
Amazing marketing.
Book a stay at Bob W Kaarti!
Bob W Kaarti Review: A Unique Stay in Helsinki – Coming Soon!
Day Ten & Eleven: Helsinki, Friends & Ice Skating
Welcome to the city known as the “White City of the North” due to the light coloured granite used on many buildings in the city centre. From December to March, the city transforms into a white city as it’s covered in thick snow.
For tourists both local and from afar, Helsinki has become a must-visit destination, drawn by both the city’s structural beauty with nature at it’s door step and the fact that it’s once again named the happiest country in the world in the 2024 World Happiness Report.
We had a completely different reason for our stop at Helsinki — catch up with some local friends and ice hockey!
Ice Hockey is the Finnish national identity and culture. Unless you’re into sports and specifically the sport of ice hockey, not many people know this other side of Finland.
Though Ice Hockey is not the national sport of Finland, it is indeed, the most popular sport in the country. No other sport brings the people together in Finland than ice hockey do.
Begin your morning with a slow breakfast at Picnic a cafe chain just a few doors away from Bob W Kaarti.
First stop of the day; The Old Market Hall. We were pleased to find plenty of high quality culinary vendors and the opportunity to get souvenirs for our friends and family back home. The market hall is located in a historic milieu just by the Helsinki Market Square.
Find it on Google Maps.
Do / Have lunch or or dinner at Café Story. Try their creamy salmon soup with potatoes. The portion is generous too.
Plan / Since my brother and I are hockey players ourselves, we planned an ice skating session at Pirkkolan jäähalli, on Day Eleven. If you plan on doing the same, this day would probably be a good day to rent skates from the place we bought our hockey gears —Hockey Corner.
Keep in mind that the ice rink is a little further out, so factor in the time you need to return the skates after. There are no skate rentals at the ice rink as it is a huge ice arena with two olympic sized ice rinks under one roof. While it’s open to the public, it is not operated as a recreational ice rink offering skate rentals.
Cost / The ice skating session is free for one hour. We discovered this from our conversations the guys who sold us our hockey gears. The Finnish government promotes ice skating by offerring free public skating sessions for everyone to enjoy, stay healthy, and strengthen community ties without any cost. Particularly in cities like Helsinki and Espoo, there are atleast ten city-run ice rinks that has designated free skating shifts. Visitors and travellers are welcome to utilize this free ice time.
As kids growing up and playing the sport in Malaysia, this is a dream for my brother and I.
Those interested can simply walk in without any registration required in advance. You’ll only need to know what time and day is the designated free shifts of each ice rinks. The free sessions are available for different types of skating preferences; ice skating with hockey sticks and without.
We opted for the session without hockey sticks.
The designated free session for Pirkkolan jäähalli, is every Wednesdays at 16:00.
Not into ice skating? Here’s a list of other things you can do.
Top 7 Things to Do in Helsinki:
- Feeling adventurous? Do the Archipelago Excursion in Porkkalalniemi
- Do your very own Cafe hop
- Need some nature therapy? Hike Nuuksio National park and have a campfire lunch
- Too tired to walk? Do a Hop-on Hop-Off City Bus Tour
- Free Ice Skating at Pirkkolan jäähalli
- Do your own city photography walk
- Hike and Sauna in Sipoonkorpi National Park
Day Twelve: Helsinki to Tallinn
Just across the Gulf of Finland is Tallinn—the capital of Estonia. It’s only a two-hour ferry journey and it’s close proximity to Helsinki; 82 kilometers in distance when measured in a straight line. This allowed for a rich exchange of toursim and culture with frequent local commuters and travellers from both sides travelling back and forth for day trips.
We used the Tallink Silja Line. It was a pleasant two hour journey across the sea. The price tickets don’t include designated seats. Just like the ferry journey in my Ireland road trip, onboard you’ll find a shopping mall, lots of seats, a garden deck, cafes and restaurants. It was spacious and plenty of room to roam around. Booking a cabin is not necessary.
Do / I recommend booking your tickets well in advance to secure a spot on your prefered sailing day. Purchasing tickets early gives you a wider selection of departure times compared to buying last minute and peace of mind.
We booked our tickets with Tallink Silja Line. Other ferry operators are the Viking Line and Eckero Line. All three ferries also offer car passenger tickets if you plan on driving.
Cost / €41.30 per person for foot passengers. No fees for baggage.
Stay / As we were spending three nights in Tallinn, and being fully aware that you can essentially cover Tallinn within 45 minutes, I decided to book us a unique stay at Iglu Park incase we run out of things to do.
We landed on this excellent and cozy accommodation with a sea view, and a seaside sauna (recommended by a friend). Yes, I was secretly pleased with this facility because I wanted to do a sauna and cold dip again. It includes a sun terrace overlooking the sea, cafe bar, and wellness packages for a calming stay. There isn’t any restaurant or cafe on premise, but within walking distance there are cafes and restaurants to sample.
If you prefer a hotel or apart hotel, there are a number of really good options including Bob W Kaarti and Garden Studio.
If your budget permits and if you want something closer to nature, remote and private, Maidla Nature Resort and ÖÖD Hötels Rannamõisa are great choices.
Day Thirteen & Fourteen: Tallinn
We rose early in Tallinn for a full day of activities.
After a quick mark on her Google Maps on what to do around Old Town Tallinn, my cousin came up with an interactive walking map around Old Town. We managed to cover a lot of ground on our full day in Tallinn. It was an incredibly walkable city too; which was expected and it wasn’t much of a surprise to us.
First stop is the Tallinn Town Hall Square. We ordered a Bolt ride from Iglu Park and stoped right in the middle of the square so we can walk from there. The Town Hall Square has been a marketplace and the centre of this old Hanseatic town since the middle ages from the 13th to 14th century.
So, what can you do in Tallinn you ask.
Here are Top Eleven things to Do in Tallinn:
- Tallin Town Hall Square
- Lokking for a place for Brunch? Try Cinnamon Restaurant
- Alexander Nevsky Church
- St Mary’s Cathedral
- Kohtuotsa Viewing Point
- Patkuli Viewing Platform
- KGB Prison Cells
- Need snacks? Sample Estonian Donuts at SÕÕRIKU JAM
- Try Kooker—they bake mini pancakes.
- Craving for matcha latte? Try Mitch Matcha & More.
- Have Pasta for Dinner at La Prima Vanallin
In anticipation of tomorrow’s full travel day back home, we decided to treat oursleves by staying in and enjoy our Iglu hut on day fourteen. We wanted a calm and relaxing day, so we hung out on the terrace and enjoyed the endless horizons of the Gulf of Tallinn and soaked in the fresh air. We had all the time in the world to just slow down and do nothing.
Our stay includes a daily morning sauna and ice dips. While the wood-fired iglu sauna can fit up to 10 person, we had the sauna all to ourselves on most days. It also has a private shower room on the sun terrace and a ladder to step into the sea for ice swimming or dips.
Since there are no eateries nearby, we ordered dinner with Bolt Food!
Day Fifteen: Tallinn – Home
We booked a noon flight so we can take our time to check out from Iglu Park. I recommend giving yourselves time to order a Bolt ride so you can get to the airport on time, comfortably, and woohoo! —the least crowded and smooth flowing airport I’ve ever been in.
The Bolt ride from Iglu Park to Tallinn airport takes about 19 minutes.
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